DEFINITIONS
GS - American Gem Society
A professional jeweler’s society founded in 1934. AGS has a
laboratory which grades diamonds and offers a diamond grading report.
AGS has a cut grading system for round diamonds.
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0
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Ideal
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1
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Excellent
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2
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Very Good
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3-4
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Good
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5-7
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Fair
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8-10
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Poor
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A written estimate of the approximate retail replacement value of
the item described. They can be used for insurance purposes and should
be updated every few years.
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On a round brilliant diamond, these are eight large kite-shaped
facets on the crown. Also called top main facet.
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Brilliance describes the reflections of white light coming from the
diamond.
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Round diamond with 57 facets (58 if there is a culet). Round
brilliant cut diamonds are more brilliant than any of the fancy-shaped
stones.
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The standard unit of measurement of the weight of a diamond. One
carat equals 1/5 of a gram or 1/142 of an ounce. 1 carat=100 points.
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A type of inclusion consisting of a large or deep opening in the
diamond.
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The degree to which a diamond is free from blemishes/inclusions.
Clarity is graded on a scale from Flawless (FL) to Imperfect (I).
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Any process used to improve the apparent clarity of a diamond. This
may include filling fractures and cavities with glass/resin.
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A break in a diamond which is parallel to one of its
crystallographic planes. A cleavage may be caused by inherent internal
strain or by a sharp blow. The break may extend to the surface of a
diamond.
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A group of tiny, white inclusions which give a “cloudy” appearance.
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The part of the diamond that is above the girdle. It consists of the
table and the crown facets below it.
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The angle measured between the girdle plane and the bezel facets.
Along with the table size, the crown angle helps determine the amount of
dispersion displayed by the diamond.
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The part of the diamond that is above the girdle.
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The crown height expressed as a percentage of the average girdle
diameter.
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A type of inclusion. A crystal is a mineral deposit trapped inside
the diamond.
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The smallest (58th) facet at the bottom of a full-cut diamond. Some
diamonds do not have a culet (none or pointed is how the culet of that
diamond will be described).
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The cut (make) of a diamond refers to the proportions given to the
polished diamond by the diamond cutter. The cut is the most important of
the 4Cs (cut, color, clarity, carat) in determining the diamond’s
overall beauty.
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The distance between the table and the culet as measured in
millimeters.
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The depth of the diamond divided by the average width.
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The fiery, rainbow colors emanating from a diamond as white light is
broken-up into colors.
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European Gemological Laboratory - EGL has franchises in a number of
cities around the world which grade diamonds and offer a diamond grading
certificate.
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In clarity-grading, eye-clean diamonds should have no inclusions
that are visible through the table to the unaided eye.
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The polished planes on the surface of a diamond.
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A fracture in a diamond that looks like a white feather.
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The rainbow colors seen in a diamond as a result of dispersion.
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The property in many diamonds that makes them glow in an environment
rich in ultraviolet light. Diamonds can fluoresce in a number of colors,
but generally all but blue are to be avoided. Faint to medium
fluorescence is rarely detected under ordinary lighting conditions.
Strong or very strong fluorescence may make a diamond appear “milky” or
“oily”, especially in sunlight. Blue fluorescence may enhance the color
of diamonds rated “H” in color or below (I,J, etc.) by hiding their
yellow tint. Diamonds rated D-F with medium+ fluorescence may sell at a
discount.
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A chip or break on a diamond that is not in the direction of a
cleavage plane. Irregular in shape, they usually appear step-like or as
a splinter.
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A diamond enhancement process whereby a cavity in a diamond is
filled with an artificial substance.
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Gemological Institute of America Gem Trade Lab. The well-respected
independent laboratory which grades diamonds and includes a diamond
grading report with each diamond.
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The outer edge of a diamond which forms a band around the stone. The
girdle can be faceted, polished or unpolished
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The measurement describing the percentage of the diamond’s average
girdle diameter.
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Sometimes called a “certificate”, although labs do not “certify”
diamonds. The grading report, issued by an independent laboratory,
should accurately describe the proportions, weight, color, clarity,
symmetry, polish and possible fluorescence seen in the diamond being
evaluated. Some labs such as GIA and AGS are felt by many experts to be
more consistent and stringent in their grading than some other labs.
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International Gemological Institute. A laboratory which offers a
grading report. IGI also produces written appraisals.
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A naturally-occurring imperfection in a diamond. Some examples are:
feathers, crystals, needles, clouds and pinpoints.
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A diamond enhancement technique whereby a laser is used to drill to
an inclusion which is then bleached to enhance the diamond’s appearance.
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A tiny tube created in a diamond by laser drilling, which is often
done to treat diamonds.
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A comparison of the length and width of the girdle outline on
fancy-shaped diamonds. The ratio is found by dividing the length of the
diamond by the width. The width is always stated as 1. Some L to W
ratios are considered to be more appealing than others, but this is a
matter of personal preference.
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Pear
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1.50 - 1.75 : 1
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Marquise
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1.75 - 2.25 : 1
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Heart
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0.98 - 1.02 : 1
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Oval
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1.33 - 1.66 : 1
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Emerald
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1.50 - 1.75 : 1
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Radiant/Princess
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0.95 - 1.05 :
1
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A small magnifying lens used to examine diamonds. 10x magnification
is the standard.
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The facets on the pavilion of a round brilliant just below the
girdle.
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An early form of the brilliant diamond with a squarish-shaped
girdle, high crown, small table, deep pavilion, and very large culet.
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The 10-point scale of mineral hardness. Diamond scores 10 on Mohs
Scale. The diamond is the hardest of all known natural substances.
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These blemishes can be found on some polished diamonds when some of
the rough is left on the diamond. This is often done so the cutter can
maximize weight in a diamond.
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The earliest known form of brilliant cut diamond with a very small
table, heavy crown and large depth.
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The portion of the diamond below the girdle.
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The angle measured between the girdle and the pavilion main facet.
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The eight facets found on the pavilion of a round brilliant diamond.
Their points touch the girdle.
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Very small inclusions in a diamond.
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1/100th of a carat. For example, a 1/4 carat diamond weighs 25
points.
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The way the cutter finishes the facets on a diamond. Labs grade
finish from poor to excellent.
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Sparkle. The tiny flashes of light noticeable in a diamond when the
observer moves his/her head.
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There are eight common diamond shapes. They are round, marquise,
pear, oval, heart, princess/radiant, emerald, and trillion. The round is
the most popular (the rest are called “fancy-shaped”). There are also
other shapes created and sold by manufacturers.
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One of the eight triangular facets found on the upper crown section
(next to the table) of a brilliant-cut diamond.
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Labs grade symmetry from poor to excellent, based on the diamond’s
proportions and the relation of one facet to another (meet-point
faceting).
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The largest facet which sits on top of a diamond. This is where most
of the light enters and exits a diamond.
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The width of the table divided by the average diameter.
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One of the 15 facets found on the lower crown portion of the diamond
(abutting the girdle).
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